Най-дългото пътуване 1

                                                               

Настъпиха такива времена, когато можеш  да си седиш пред компютъра и да си  „пътуваш”, да  пишеш пътеписи и каквото си искаш. Поръчваш  на електронния си помощник каквото ти трябва и на минутата информацията идва. Трябват ти исторически  или географски данни, искаш да научиш за живота на знаменити личности, моля, каквото пожелаеш  с филмите, снимките  и диаграмите. Едно, обаче, не може да се случи, да почувстваш трепета от личния контакт. Ето това е, което ме води все по-далече и кара кръвта ми да  закипи -   да стъпя на нова земя, да  ме повее  вятър с друг мирис,  да чуя нова реч, да видя нови хора.

          Да пътуваш от Сиатъл за Банкок , това значи да висиш във въздуха осемнадесет часа, притиснат и прищипн в самолетна седалка. Напитките, храната, персоналните телевизори, опитите да спиш или да се разведриш не помагат.

Всичко това се забравя, когато самолетът се извиси  над  дългоочакваната цел и когато планините, реките, улиците и къщите започнат да нарастват пред очите ти. След това идва тъй желаният трус от колелата на приземяващия се самолет. Това означава, че нашето приключение започва, а другото е  било част от цената, която се плаща,  за да го достигнем.
 

Банкок е една очарователна мозайка от дворци, храмове, супермодерни и много бедни, износени сгради, пръснати сред каналите и покрай линиите на надземното метро.  Старите и новите постройки са в постоянна  битка.  Можеш да видиш някои колоси, надвиснали  на  не повече от метър край покривите на  отчайващи старотии, готови да се срутят. От метрото се наднича  в прозорците  на много  бавно умиращи къщи.
                                           

 

                 Цялата тази смайваща смесица се простира  на хиляда и  петстотин  квадратни километра площ и дава подслон на осем милиона жители. Това е Тайланд, чието преобладаващото население са дребните грациозни тайландци. Има и много хора придошли от Бирма, Индия,  Китай и Виетнам. Имах  чувството, че всички те, след като са покрили с малки постройки цялата територия, са се втурнали да търгуват, толкова много магазини и сергии видяхме из града и околностите.

            Индийският пазар, в който попаднахме по грешка приличаше на лабиринт от копринени пещери, запълнени с кована мед, дърворезба и какво ли не. Купища маниста и пайети  блестяха от всички страни. Надникнахме в една сергия, после в още една и край, потънахме.  Пазарът  се разстилаше на два квартала площ и от сергии с провесени платове, кожени изделия и всякакъв вид декоративни изделия, видимостта се ограничаваше до 2 м.  Едвам се измъкнахме от там.

Около три века назад, картината е била друга. Тайландците  водили безкрайни и безнадеждни войни с Бирма. Когато им  писнало от битки, в които те не са били печелившите,  полководецът  Таксин  ги повел към  централната част на страната. Установили се около река Chao Phraya и заживели в мир. Той бил нарушен едва през втората световна война,  когато японците ги завладели  за известно време.

Някой ще каже, че мислите ми са скверни, но аз ще наруша  последователността на описанието, за да споделя, че за мене е много важно кой те е поробил. Унгарците бяха  завладени от  Австрия  и  станаха Европа,  ние - от турците и станахме половин Ориента за дълго. Мога да добавя и по-пресни примери от нашата история на непрекъснато „освобождаване”, но не ми се мисли за това и  силно се надявам следите да бъдат изличени, и забравени  след още пет – шест години.
 Ще възкликна все пак, стига "освободителки", стига "доброжелателки", всяка държава да си знае мястото. Някога си Англия отиде да "оправи живота" на хората в Мала Азия и Индия. Накъса територията им настрои хората едни срещу други и резултатът от помощта е, че те се бият на верска и териториална основа с години и до кога? А колко още примера има на тази земя?

Прочитам материала след тези 8 години и...о ужас, какви са промените в България? Къде е загрижеността на населението, не само недоволството? Все пак из страната се намират много новости, но ми е най-трудно да търся промените в хората. Лошото е, че и най-ентусиазираните ратници за положителни промени са навели поглед, или са напуснали страната. Ще кажете, че е лесно да си зрител и критикар, така е. За колко хиляди, или милиона става дума?

 Да се върна сега на Банкок и неговите имена.  В 1767 година полководецът Таксин , който се провъзгласил за  цар Рама първи, основал  столицата  и я наименувал   с най-дългото име на света и до наши дни, изписвало се 164 букви.  То означавало, че това е градът на ангелите, на изумрудения  Буда, на бога  Индра, на най-красивия царски палат и е най-щастливият  град. Малко хора можели да   произнесат  това име и се задоволили само с началото му  - Krungthep,  градът на ангелите.  По-късно името било сменено с названието на китайското селце, където се разположил градът,  селото на маслините – Банкок.  В тази страна обичали да преименуват и самата държава сменила името си от Сиам на Тайланд през 1939г.



                                                                 
 

Едвам издържахме да напуснем  летището. Отвън ни чакаше кола, която ни отведе в хотела да отдъхнем. „Не никакъв отдих, дворците и храмовете ни зоват. „Идваме в кафенето след тридесет минути”. Това изрекохме в хор на шофьора и хукнахме навътре.

Ето така започна всичко, първо генералната обиколка на града с кола и разхадка по реката Чао Фрайа.

Посещението  на най-впечатляващия храм на Банкок –  Wat  Arun трябваше да се осъществи след обед, защото трябваше да  видим и великолепния залез. На фона на пурпурното небе се открояваха екзотичните кули на храма. Занемяхме за дълго...и снимки на залеза не направихме. В късен следобед  стените на храма отразяват лъчите на залязващото слънце. От далече  храмът Ват Арун приличаше на  огромен жезъл, покрит със скъпоценни камъни.  Жалко, че всичко наоколо сега е застроено и панорамна снимка може да се направи само от хеликоптер.

                       

Храмът се намира на западния бряг на реката и в светлината на късния залез изглежда като огромен призрак. От там идва и името му , което в превод значи  Храм на здрача на залеза. За да стигнем до него, трябваше да пресечем реката, същата  на чиято естествена защита разчитал Таксин, когато основал столицата. За по-голяма сигурност, той наредил да прокопаят канали и от останалите страни на града, като го превърнал в остров. Идеята за каналите, се харесала на династията Шакри.  Те прорязали града с толкова канали, че градът придобил прозвището  Венеция на изтока.  Сега по-голямата част от тях са запълнени и  превърнати в улици за бързо растящия град.Така се стигнало  до последното име, за сега – Голямото манго. Голямата ябълка е ” запазена марка”  за Ню Йорк по климатични причини.

Тайландците знаят какво притежават и го пазят ревностно. Близо три века Ват Арун  се издига над западния бряг с цялото си величие на сто и четири метра височина , запазил цялост и красота, сякаш е завършен вчера. Ограден е от четири по-ниски кули , свързани с концентрични тераси и парапети. От двете страни на стълбищата, които се спускат от вратите на храма, стоят на стража китайскигте каменни статуи, същите които са дошли с кораба и начупените порцеланови сервизи.

·                                                      Трудно е да се повярва, че този  огромен комплекс от толкова хармонично свързани части е покрит целия със  счупените порцелани, докарани през планини и морета. Парченца, или цели чашки и чинийки от сервизи за чай и кафе, неповторимо съчетани по цвят и форма, описват гирлянди, букети, танцьори и други фигури по стените на всички кули и парапети и колонади.
 

Историята, така както ни я разказа  екскурзоводът, гласи че корабът който докарал сервизите бил изпратен за друга стока, но по някакви причини се върнал с трюмове пълни със сервизи. За тегло и баланс добавили  китайските  каменни войни. На връщане корабът едва издържал ударите на развълнуваното море и всичко се натрошило. Отломките  били закарани направо в храма.  
 

               

Преди края на строителството, което отнело шестдесет години, порцеланът се свършил. Тогава поредният цар, който бил Рама  трети, отправил апел към населението  за още материал. Изобилието било голямо и храмът бил завършен.
 

                                 

                                     

       Малкото  дни, с които разполагахме бяха  запълнени от девет сутрин до единадесет часа вечер. Ако ни  бяха накарали да работим  толкова дълго, щяхме да грохнем, как издържаме, когато сме на път –не знам.

Следващата сутрин започна с посещение на царския комплекси храма Ват Фра , където на площ от хиляда и петстотин квадратни метра са разположени  палатите, гробниците и храмовете на династия Шакри. При  нашето посещение царете бяха достигнали до Рама  девети. Царската територия е добре оградена, независимо от цялата обич и респект към трона.

 Трудно може да се каже кое е най-хубаво. За всеобща радост строителите не са се притеснявали нито за време, нито за пари, поради което пред нашите смаяни очи се издигаха едно от друго по-богато орнаментирани творения на строителството. За три века тайландската, китайската, френската и викторианската  архитектура , така са се вплели, че се чудехме за какво да мислим, за история или за изкуство. Бяхме като хипнотизирани от този парад на изящество и екзотика.

Airports 2

 

                                                                  

 

Once I had to go to the capital of Angola, Luanda. I had the luck to fly with a small military plane. The little Jet bug rushed as stung from the airport directly above the sea. It was flying so low that I could see the fish in the water. For my "serenity", the pilot explained to me that it is much safer. The coastal artillery of rebel Savimbe could not see us. I do not know whether this calm me down, but at least I arrived in Luanda two times faster. Were those years when the military pilots in Angola in spare time could "make money" for themselves. For passengers it was convenient to travel quickly and not to fight with the inevitable crowds of African airports. More, small airplanes leave us straight to the exit of the airport, a few steps from the cabs.

The next time the plane, which I flew to Luanda receive accident. The pilot circled the airport several times over with hope to open the wills. When he realized that this is not going to happened he went back over the sea to empty the tanks. We were ready for "landing". To the surprise even of pilot wheels opened although quite sharply we landed. I can't remember another show in my life, I heard more applause and a standing ovation.

 The airports are the doors of modern cities.  Before leaving the airport it is better to look and gather first impressions for the hosts. By the concept of modern airport can be measured the time. We can  start from the concrete buildings of the old European cities and come to light mesh structures as those in Hong Kong, Minneapolis, Denver and many others... At the airport you can say which Nations are the most frequent visitors of this city and what are the most decorated aircraft. I don't know if  because my longest flight was to Bangkok and Hong Kong, but there I saw the most painted  aircraft-they had picked flowers, animals, any ideas as if they were toys.

 

                                                          

          When someone visits more than ten to twenty airports the impressions get confused and is no longer clear where and what he saw. To the traditional requirements for cleanliness, organization of the movement, the  presence of enough services, entertainment and exhibits of art, ornamental plants fountains and so-on, now we have to add additionally discretion,  and security.          

          About 40 years ago at the airport in Rome I saw for the first time armed guards.  And until now have before my eyes the big automatic rifles and tense glances of the Carabineers . Then only they knew why they were there. We are now relaxed, if they are around.

           I don't know why I'm most like Heathrow, one of the London airports, Gatwick, as well as Vancouver, Frankfurt, Chicago and New York bother me. Need to transport over long distances , and Lord knows, if you're in the wrong despite abundant markings, you can get to your flight on time. In Heathrow I can live and won't miss anything. Food, effects, entertainment,  contacts with the world, everything is in the right place. From the basement the metro leads me to any desired point in London. I can walk to dark around the squares, palaces, galleries and gardens. At the last minute, leaping into the subway, grab my bag from the closet, send e-mail to meet me and relax tired bones in the sit of the plane. Maybe it is a matter of insufficient information and preferences.

The biggest "airport" of the world is the State of Brazil and the largest "airplane" is the capital-Brazil. This is Brazilian great miracle. To build a capital city in the middle of the jungle, far away from any civilization, hitting her with a huge pond and to design the plan of the city as the silhouette of an airplane... If you don't know in advance and not looking before landing, you miss your only chance to see from the air the city-plane, landed on the airport-State. The central body of the "plane"-fuselage is consists of two avenues, with as few lanes in opposite directions, separated with a wide lawn. On both sides are all ministries buildings, major State and city institutions, theater, stadium and cathedrals. The nose of the "plane" are the buildings of the Presidency and the Parliament, and the tail-less updated replica of the Indian Temple of the tribe inhabited this place. At the sides of them is a beautiful modern Cathedral.

          In the middle is the Memorial of the Brazilian President Kubček, whose courage and ambition, managed to settle in the heart of the jungle around six hundred thousand people and to move there all the international diplomacy public administration.

             On both sides of the fuselage, on the wings are located hotels-from the left and the residential buildings-from the right. The area is huge, all buildings have a modern architecture, surrounded by tropical foliage and fountains. The city could tripled, because many land waiting for their future settlers. Maybe then the view from the air will be much sharper and larger than life.

Now airlines are struggling by the financial crisis, but there were years when the passengers looked far better. Then, if the flight is delayed or the stay between flights, included in the ticket price of a company's longer, passengers slept in a hotel and were feeding in the restaurant free of charge. I don't know about others, but the Bulgarians, who were flying to Africa immediately used this opportunity. So their stay in Rome was becoming longer and less expensive. What to do when you work as any and you get double the less for your work.

The things are different  now. On return from Rio de Janeiro we landed in Miami. A long plane was shaking while crossing the dense cloud diaper to reached open horizons. The track proved to be a real lake and the wheels sprinkled the fountains in all directions. The airport was wearing all the scars of recent flooding. On the floors and benches were sleeping people, embraced the familiar small air cushions and blankets. Others already waited long and thick tails for revalidation of their tickets. This daily routine no longer surprised Boardwalk passengers.

These days a little April late hurricane close for twenty-four hours the airport in Denver, Colorado.The television showed us  unhappy faces of a small group of students who were on vacation. Before departure they have spent all their money. It's just that long not flown. The average body weight of Americans is ninety pounds, let's them become more elegant... Sounds ominous, I take it all back.
 

To talk to Kennedy airport, then to describe the city. Three or four times before I dares be landing there and leave the planes at various locations. Only perfect markings and good organization are rescued in this huge space. Do you remember the movie "Airport" with Tom Hang? This is a modern large airport. You can make your live  there without him leaving.

Recently, I was in China and Dubai and saw a new generation of airports. What can  do the contemporary architecture? In 2008 China floored the Olympians with a huge modern and beautiful airport, whose steel construction  high "to the sky” was completed with Chinese diligence and aesthetics. ? How the technique on 21st century free the hands of builders and allows them the realization of so bold ideas For me was a real joy to see that creation of international efforts, a lot of money and ambition. Not to mention the huge outdoor areas, although we landed during the day, not at all I saw where they begin and end. Everything that made the Chinese for the Olympics, it was appropriate, beautiful and well done.

Dubai – what do you expect from the country that have build Burj  hotel?... Oriental swoop, glitter and plenty, filled by builders who have been overgrown their continent. There's no reason to go on, there was everything from it, sometimes a little sweaty, sometimes wonderful and unique. Photos will still leave to speak.

 The New Delhi airport remained clouded in obscurity for us because we landed and flew off in the dark. We only though how they managed to adapt the international vision of airport towards Indian culture? This is manifested in the small details, as it becomes clear to us now that we are in India. With a few pictures will be clear, what I have in mind.

The penultimate flight for me in 2012 year was up to Bulgaria. On my way to Sofia I had to stop in Budapest. Hungarians  have nice airport, because they follow the traditions  of the beautiful old Budapest. After Wien it was the best in Austro-Hungarian State. Even before 100 years the builders meant to make their city of the future, because have watched with 300 years ahead. The few times I've been there and always be happy..

Do you think  I will finish with a few words about the new Bulgarian airport? No, wait for it to finish and then we will talk. I will say, however, that the Hungarians with capital and their new airport are still far ahead of us.  Here are many other things to take my hat off to them.  If we do race and run against each other, whether we will reach them and, if not, what prevents us from?

 

            

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

  

 

 

 

 

The airports 1

                                                                   

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 Airports-with this word I can measure the time. Of course there are a thousand other ways, but I like this one because there are planes there, which fly up high.
 
                                    
I also love to go to the high mountains. I can barely stand to get some peak and looked toward the wide expanse. With pleasure, contemplate so many things to see, learn and wish. Of course, one is always prevail, to get away from the top and fly  alone over valleys, rivers, houses and streets. My childhood dream has come true for others, it was too late for me  to fly with Delta-plan. I already had the desire to overcome longer distances and to see more, so airports are so important in my life. From the time of the AN-24 it's been many years, but I still remember how the small airplane was throwing in "air-holes" and shivered through the clouds over the Rila and Stara Planina Mountains. With a gratitude to the pilot I left the airport, and I promised myself to see the world only from the mountains.

                                                                         
 I found later, that when I do promises, it is better to be alone, because many of them are not based on sufficient experience. The 20th century is not stagnant. To be slow so to miss your chances. I'm flying again, but now with more security and comfort.

 

                                                                       

During the sixties the airports of Germany, Hungary and Czechoslovakia were for me the porch to the forbidden West. Doors to other cultures, to a world in which people can have their own opinion and proud to say from which country they are. Their airports were spacious and comfortable, and the passengers enjoyed the respect and reverence. Most of these were missing in Bulgarian airports. Each passenger is watched as a potential intruder. His fault was that, although some will get away from Communist hugs, the stronger, the closer you are to the Russian border.

In our days we came again to the sad moments, to peek passenger’s bags and suitcases. The motivation is different, now the travelers monitor whether verification is accurate enough, because taking  the plane they bet their lives. Before  in Sofia’s airport I was afraid if I my flight could be canceled for an unknown reason, now if some Arab wants to inscribe his name in Golden lists of Allah.

 The attack on the World Trade Center in New York found us in Las Vegas. After having allowed the flights we went to the airport and waited for three-four hours to gather volunteers to fly . Two days of American sky wasn't moving either plane and we were going to end up among the first. May sound strange, but the verification of our luggage happened in front of us and we all had our eyes in the hands of the employee who was checking out. Although we stayed so long at the airport, in my mind there's only this memory, everything else was wiped out by the significance of the terrible event.

To land in Moscow and up to now is quite another thing. There you are a "Westerner" and the object of special care and attention. Of course, they cover not only your comfort, but also every possible step that  may transferred you  into the Group of spies.

The Russians at their own airports may not be in the Hall of the foreigners, cannot enter the cafeteria and breakfast sandwich with caviar, a measure of prosperity, cannot easily get to a taxi and cannot get the most rudimentary passenger facilities as foreigners. I admit it, the feeling of privileges makes people feel the pleasant "ticklish" of preferred. Every time I looked at those behind the invisible iron curtain I was trying to skip their eyes. They would have read no sympathy, but reproach, that  they led the world to this unfortunate situation. We have paid for it, on a par with them.

Part of this material was included in a book published a few years ago but now I was thinking again about the Russians. How long will they live  with their pan-Russian syndrome? 30% of them probably do not have what to eat and what to wear in the frigid winters but praise Putin’s aggressive policy. A Premier, who spends their billions for armament… What is wrong in their measurement system? How long they can  follow their  megalomaniacs  Kings and then Stalin?  If so, why in their minds are Western countries and America. For now, the 78 ,700,000 of them  are in United States of America, 31,300,000 in Europe and there are other countries. How to regret for those confused millions who withstand against their own smart and brave children, that put their lives on risk for them?

Albeit slowly things were changing for me, I get more I was getting closer now to the airports of the free world. The first was the closest to Bulgaria, that of Athens. I was there on the way to Africa. We have landed after midnight; there weren't many people and this increased the feeling of space, luxury and serenity. Windows with the glow of gold, precious stones, the soft folds of the elegant clothes, electronics and many more "Western wonders" attracted the souls of our group "builders of socialism", to which I had a bad chance to belong.

 From Athens was my first flight with transatlantic aircraft, under the French flag. You may think that my joy was philistine weakness to brag. No, those were the first sips of freedom. For the first time, I was going to work outside of my country, I'd have my money every month. I wouldn't be afraid that the  little currency with which Bulgarians went  abroad will finish and I will end up among the beggars. I slowly opened the door to independence. At this point I realized that the most interesting my experiences at airports barely starting. 

 My first landing on the African continent in Dar-es-Salaam was connected with strange guttural sounds of authemic language Swahili.  The ggraceful figures of African women, wrapped in the traditional kapulana were moving with floating steps, balancing suitcases and bags on their heads. I felt a strange odor in the International Terminal, which I have connected for always to Africa. Exotic blend of plant and human odors, the balance between which changes depending on the hygiene of the place. Then I didn’t  figure out  these things. I was in Ecstasy, drugged by the atmosphere that welcomed me the continent.

            The small airport was sunk in abundant tropical vegetation. Inside was lavishly decorated with sculptures made of ebony and Rosewood, which contrasted the background of the frescoes in the highly saturated red, orange and yellow tones.  Abstractionism   has come to Africa without any academic training.

Now I compare what I saw in Dar es Salaam with works of  Salvador Daly which I recently saw in London  on the seafront square near "London Eye"-the English version of the Ferris wheel. The artists of the African continent have talent and learned methods that are transmitted with the generations, as well as an innate sense of  beauty, colors  , swing and movement. This is the label, which  represents  them around the world.

Recently I went back again on these thoughts. At the airport in Atlanta were exhibited paintings and sculptures  of African artists.  Welcome at the personal invitation of the Mayor. Around one hundred very impressive works. They were stacked in a wide corridor, that takes passengers from the Terminal to the central zone. Great idea, instead of wasting your time in cafeterias and shops, to enjoy the human imagination and talent.

          I don't know how Angolans live when they stopped fighting each other for power, but at the end of the eighties the airport of Luanda was the example of the disorder. Due to the lack of regular transport, the purchase of a ticket was a strategic operation that requires links, patience and more money. Even with a ticket in hand, nobody knew whether the plane will take him. The concept of reserved space there wouldn't make sense.

          However, if someone was lucky to rich the Hall for departure on domestic lines using a serious athletic exercise and if he approach the stairs of the plane after hours, he was not sure if somebody could take his turn at the last moment and  let him wait again spending  indefinitely in the close surroundings of very perspiring bodies filled with bags and boxes. Any distraction could reduce his luggage. So I ended up with a punctured bag and without documents. I leaned to look for them and only due to my vociferous daughter never trod.

The airports of provincial States of Angola were better.  The airport in Benguela province, where I was working, was a small clean and well-organized. People were filling home. Nothing was forbidden. Everyone could go anywhere. Thanks to this trusting atmosphere one  warm night of February Savimbe forces building up in the air, but they left the Tower, because they also needed it.

 I never knew anyone who "worked" there. I wonder which of my students carrying a weapon under his shirt and against whom. To me were friendly. My absolute indifference to the military problems had discouraged them.