Thursday, April 2, 2015

The airports 1








                                                                   
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 Airports-with this word I can measure the time. Of course there are a thousand other ways, but I like this one because there are planes there, which fly up high.
 
                                    
I also love to go to the high mountains. I can barely stand to get some peak and looked toward the wide expanse. With pleasure, contemplate so many things to see, learn and wish. Of course, one is always prevail, to get away from the top and fly  alone over valleys, rivers, houses and streets. My childhood dream has come true for others, it was too late for me  to fly with Delta-plan. I already had the desire to overcome longer distances and to see more, so airports are so important in my life. From the time of the AN-24 it's been many years, but I still remember how the small airplane was throwing in "air-holes" and shivered through the clouds over the Rila and Stara Planina Mountains. With a gratitude to the pilot I left the airport, and I promised myself to see the world only from the mountains.


                                                                         
 I found later, that when I do promises, it is better to be alone, because many of them are not based on sufficient experience. The 20th century is not stagnant. To be slow so to miss your chances. I'm flying again, but now with more security and comfort.
 

                                                                       

During the sixties the airports of Germany, Hungary and Czechoslovakia were for me the porch to the forbidden West. Doors to other cultures, to a world in which people can have their own opinion and proud to say from which country they are. Their airports were spacious and comfortable, and the passengers enjoyed the respect and reverence. Most of these were missing in Bulgarian airports. Each passenger is watched as a potential intruder. His fault was that, although some will get away from Communist hugs, the stronger, the closer you are to the Russian border.

In our days we came again to the sad moments, to peek passenger’s bags and suitcases. The motivation is different, now the travelers monitor whether verification is accurate enough, because taking  the plane they bet their lives. Before  in Sofia’s airport I was afraid if I my flight could be canceled for an unknown reason, now if some Arab wants to inscribe his name in Golden lists of Allah.

 The attack on the World Trade Center in New York found us in Las Vegas. After having allowed the flights we went to the airport and waited for three-four hours to gather volunteers to fly . Two days of American sky wasn't moving either plane and we were going to end up among the first. May sound strange, but the verification of our luggage happened in front of us and we all had our eyes in the hands of the employee who was checking out. Although we stayed so long at the airport, in my mind there's only this memory, everything else was wiped out by the significance of the terrible event.

To land in Moscow and up to now is quite another thing. There you are a "Westerner" and the object of special care and attention. Of course, they cover not only your comfort, but also every possible step that  may transferred you  into the Group of spies.

The Russians at their own airports may not be in the Hall of the foreigners, cannot enter the cafeteria and breakfast sandwich with caviar, a measure of prosperity, cannot easily get to a taxi and cannot get the most rudimentary passenger facilities as foreigners. I admit it, the feeling of privileges makes people feel the pleasant "ticklish" of preferred. Every time I looked at those behind the invisible iron curtain I was trying to skip their eyes. They would have read no sympathy, but reproach, that  they led the world to this unfortunate situation. We have paid for it, on a par with them.

Part of this material was included in a book published a few years ago but now I was thinking again about the Russians. How long will they live  with their pan-Russian syndrome? 30% of them probably do not have what to eat and what to wear in the frigid winters but praise Putin’s aggressive policy. A Premier, who spends their billions for armament… What is wrong in their measurement system? How long they can  follow their  megalomaniacs  Kings and then Stalin?  If so, why in their minds are Western countries and America. For now, the 78 ,700,000 of them  are in United States of America, 31,300,000 in Europe and there are other countries. How to regret for those confused millions who withstand against their own smart and brave children, that put their lives on risk for them?

Albeit slowly things were changing for me, I get more I was getting closer now to the airports of the free world. The first was the closest to Bulgaria, that of Athens. I was there on the way to Africa. We have landed after midnight; there weren't many people and this increased the feeling of space, luxury and serenity. Windows with the glow of gold, precious stones, the soft folds of the elegant clothes, electronics and many more "Western wonders" attracted the souls of our group "builders of socialism", to which I had a bad chance to belong.






 From Athens was my first flight with transatlantic aircraft, under the French flag. You may think that my joy was philistine weakness to brag. No, those were the first sips of freedom. For the first time, I was going to work outside of my country, I'd have my money every month. I wouldn't be afraid that the  little currency with which Bulgarians went  abroad will finish and I will end up among the beggars. I slowly opened the door to independence. At this point I realized that the most interesting my experiences at airports barely starting. 

 My first landing on the African continent in Dar-es-Salaam was connected with strange guttural sounds of authemic language Swahili.  The ggraceful figures of African women, wrapped in the traditional kapulana were moving with floating steps, balancing suitcases and bags on their heads. I felt a strange odor in the International Terminal, which I have connected for always to Africa. Exotic blend of plant and human odors, the balance between which changes depending on the hygiene of the place. Then I didn’t  figure out  these things. I was in Ecstasy, drugged by the atmosphere that welcomed me the continent.

            The small airport was sunk in abundant tropical vegetation. Inside was lavishly decorated with sculptures made of ebony and Rosewood, which contrasted the background of the frescoes in the highly saturated red, orange and yellow tones.  Abstractionism   has come to Africa without any academic training.

Now I compare what I saw in Dar es Salaam with works of  Salvador Daly which I recently saw in London  on the seafront square near "London Eye"-the English version of the Ferris wheel. The artists of the African continent have talent and learned methods that are transmitted with the generations, as well as an innate sense of  beauty, colors  , swing and movement. This is the label, which  represents  them around the world.




Recently I went back again on these thoughts. At the airport in Atlanta were exhibited paintings and sculptures  of African artists.  Welcome at the personal invitation of the Mayor. Around one hundred very impressive works. They were stacked in a wide corridor, that takes passengers from the Terminal to the central zone. Great idea, instead of wasting your time in cafeterias and shops, to enjoy the human imagination and talent.

          I don't know how Angolans live when they stopped fighting each other for power, but at the end of the eighties the airport of Luanda was the example of the disorder. Due to the lack of regular transport, the purchase of a ticket was a strategic operation that requires links, patience and more money. Even with a ticket in hand, nobody knew whether the plane will take him. The concept of reserved space there wouldn't make sense.

          However, if someone was lucky to rich the Hall for departure on domestic lines using a serious athletic exercise and if he approach the stairs of the plane after hours, he was not sure if somebody could take his turn at the last moment and  let him wait again spending  indefinitely in the close surroundings of very perspiring bodies filled with bags and boxes. Any distraction could reduce his luggage. So I ended up with a punctured bag and without documents. I leaned to look for them and only due to my vociferous daughter never trod.

The airports of provincial States of Angola were better.  The airport in Benguela province, where I was working, was a small clean and well-organized. People were filling home. Nothing was forbidden. Everyone could go anywhere. Thanks to this trusting atmosphere one  warm night of February Savimbe forces building up in the air, but they left the Tower, because they also needed it.
 I never knew anyone who "worked" there. I wonder which of my students carrying a weapon under his shirt and against whom. To me were friendly. My absolute indifference to the military problems had discouraged them.





















 









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